It was never about him, it was about making others laugh and feel good. John’s enthusiasm for climbing and razor-sharp dry wit will be missed by all that knew him. We are not sure of any memorial GoFundMe account created for John’s death. He revelled in the challenge they represented at the time. I remember doing a first ascent with him on Rivelin Edge. He was also very modest about his achievements but he was understandably quite proud of them; when interviewing him for Peak Rock he jokingly said he rather hoped one day to see a chapter in a book entitled 'The John Allen Years'! But the best was yet to come as the 'Shirley Temple of British rock' (as Crags Magazine dubbed him) went on to set gritstone alight over the next two years. Coming up as third man on John's new route, I was astonished to find my car keys buried at the back of a break. Although no longer at the cutting edge, he was actually climbing technically at his best during the mid-eighties and produced some superb climbs including Chip Shop Brawl (E5 6c), West Side Story (E4 7a), Shirley's Shining Temple (E5 7a), The Fall (E6 6b), Boys Will Be Boys (E7 6c), The Children's House (E6 7a), Feet Neet (E5 6c) and Concept of Kinky (E6 6c - his last hard route on grit, in 1989). Death and Obituaries – Funeral | Cause Of Death. John was born in Greeley, Colorado to Garth and Maggie Allen on the Fourth of July, 1981. We would bump into each other at parties, at guidebook launches, out at the crag or go climbing together occasionally but we had a strong bond and respect for each other born from our love of climbing on gritstone. On a slab I might have managed it but … I needed a bit of tight on that one! However, despite his mild nature and patience John didn't suffer fools gladly, which meant most American climbers he met in Yosemite! Eventually John's business commitments and, it has to be said, increasing girth, led to a slowing down of his climbing activity, but he never lost the bug. You can help us by becoming a UKC Supporter. Amongst a plethora of routes, his stand-out ones from the early 70s include such classics as Profit of Doom, Hairless Heart, London Wall and Old Friends on the Peak gritstone plus a free ascent of Great Wall at Cloggy in Wales; they remain sought after testpieces today. O n Monday 18 May 2020 John Allen tragically lost his life in a fall at Stoney West. A young man walked up to Edge Lane, put on his helmet, tied on to his rope and promptly soloed it. former Director of Music, Jack Longstaff Death-Dead: Jack Longstaff Obituary, Cause of Death Unknown. All rights reserved. Those that would love to send sympathy, make donations to the funeral of Allen should contact the family for direction. John was climbing with his brother when the accident occurred. John had a wonderful, calm temperament and would always treat you as an equal, whereas I always saw him on a higher pedestal than myself, feeling the warmth and joy you get when talking to someone who is a master of that which you are passionate about. An ambulance and mountain rescue were called but there was nothing that could be done. He became in the course of his life a rich man, but no one would ever have known it to see him out and about or to hear him talking; John was never 'flash', he was always a warmhearted, generous man. The tragic news emerging is that gritstone legend John Allen died in a climbing fall yesterday evening. What I loved most was John’s laugh. Devoted father of Ellen, Sharon and Damian.

Nice read, thank you. DeadDeath is yet to observe the family’s statement on John’s death. https://www.climber.co.uk/news/news/gritstone-legend-john-allen-dies-in-climbing-accident/ … pic.twitter.com/ajyweeKlRx. Theme: Newsup by Themeansar. This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. One year after the death of American missionary John Allen Chau on a remote island in the Indian Ocean, the group of which he was a part says his story has encouraged others to join the mission field. The following year, Allen demonstrated his increasing maturity as a climber by making the first free ascent of The Moon (E3 5c, 5b) on Gogarth. Geoff Birtles, the editor of Crags magazine, frequently wrote-up John’s achievements in early copies of his magazine. You couldn’t resist it, you had to laugh with him. Over the past 30 years I was tickled to run into John around town, at Garretson's, and always greeted with his trademark smile and a great conversation. Gritstone legend, John Allen, dies in climbing accident. Show your support UKC Supporter badge on your profile and forum posts. 19, 2020. His contribution to climbing during that … Death & Obituaries : May. At Millstone he freed Coventry Street and then pushed the standards with what was probably his greatest achievement - a free ascent of London Wall. | Please help UKClimbing continue to provide varied and free content by becoming an official UKC Supporter. The track record of John Allen ascents is as impressive as they come. © UKClimbing Limited. https://www.climber.co.uk/news/news/john-allen-god-of-grit-the-legend First ascents here and impressive repeats of hard routes at Arapiles in Australia kept John ticking along. Link to the account will be added to this post once we confirm any. John Allen passed away in Greeley, Colorado. Birtles summed up John’s climbing ability and raw talent for Climber saying: “In his day he was the best climber on gritstone”. No longer an old man but the young man I watched all those years ago floating effortlessly up a gritstone arête. John Allen has died. Only Green Death (E5 5c), Edge Lane (E5 5c) and Linden (E5 6a (aid)) were harder. These were pre-Ondra days when climbers didn't step out of nappies onto a climbing wall and for a schoolboy to be working his way through the hardest gritstone climbs of the day was simply unprecedented. John Allen Death | Obituary – Dead | Cause Of Death – Passed Away. Between them they lead and seconded every pitch; the first time this had ever been achieved, the locals were amazed. John Allen has been tragically killed in a climbing accident at Stoney West. I met John as his first grade teacher at Cameron Elementary School. Along with his equally demanding climbs, Constipation (E4 6a) and Stanleyville (E4 5c) also done that year, Allen had added three of the hardest routes on gritstone at the age of just 14. He was always a pleasure to climb with, wonderful to watch with superb balance and technique. On their early forays from his home in Sheffield, John would imagine he was his hero Joe Brown and when he was just 12 years old he led what was arguably Brown's hardest gritstone route, the Dangler (E2 5c) at Stanage. He had difficulty trying to regain flexibility, but typically he didn't make a fuss about it despite it affecting his climbing for a number of years. _taboola.push({ In 1976 John departed to New Zealand, a move which added to his legendary status. He was a sheer pleasure and always gave his best effort, supported a wide circle of friends, and was truly admired by a wide circle of friends. container: 'taboola-below-article-thumbnails', DeadDeath learned about the death on May 19, 2020 — Friends and families of the deceased are broken by the passing of their beloved one. On Monday 18 May 2020 John Allen tragically lost his life in a fall at Stoney West. Beau Geste had been climbed by Jonny Woodward and the grades were increasing. I regret I was not in the traditional sense a closer friend of John's. Dear brother of Peggy. Funeral Home Services for John are being provided by Allnutt Funeral Service-Greeley. As of today, May 20, 2020, the obituary and funeral arrangement of the deceased has not been learned. After some considerable time John's climbing partner, Mark Stokes looked at us despairingly "Oh come on, that's enough 'Pockets and Pebbles' for today!" John Allen was a hugely influential climber in the early/mid-70s when his gritstone routes, often climbed with Steve Bancroft and/or the Stokes brothers, set the world ablaze. target_type: 'mix' John also had a fantastic sense of humour and a mischievous streak. During this period he also proved his worth on big walls with a phenomenal (non-jumared) ascent in 1981 of The Nose on El Capitan with Simon Horrox in a day. John would do or say something just a little over the edge and then there was that laugh. So far, all we've asked of you is that you visit and interact with the site but we are in uncertain times. I will think of him as I solo along Stanage on warm summer evenings with the rising sound of the curlew behind and he will be there. This can be in a small way or in a larger package that includes discounted products from our sister-publishing company Rockfax. Even today with cams, sticky boots and 'modern fitness' these routes from 1975-1976 still present a considerable challenge and on-sight ascents are rare. Then, in 1973, Allen stunned the local climbing fraternity with his ascent of the 'impossible' east wall of High Neb Buttress at Stanage Edge.

Consequently, every year there was a parade and fireworks in his honor. John Allen was a hugely influential climber in the early/mid-70s when his gritstone routes, often climbed with Steve Bancroft and/or the Stokes brothers, set the world ablaze. The tragic news emerging is that gritstone legend John Allen … In 1976 the assault continued; Artless (E5 6b), Moon Walk (E4 6a), Nectar (E5 6b, 6b), Strapadictomy (E5 6a) and Caricature (E5 6a) - all simply stunning climbs. It was obvious how they must have got there but when I accused John his absolute denial along with a completely deadpan face was so convincing that I was left flummoxed. On his return from New Zealand in 1982 I got to know him through our shared love of gritstone climbing. John Allen 10th October 1958 - 18th May 2020. Great-Grandad of Isabella, Ethan, Madeleine and Riley. Death & Obituaries : May. If you are leaving a condolence message on the comment box below , please write something nice and lovely to honor the deceased. This was not without excitement, however. On one occasion we came across each other in Chee Dale and spent ages discussing in minute detail the holds and sequences of some routes we had done on Stanage. He leaves behind a fine legacy of climbs; "So Many Classics, So Little Time" (E4 6b John Allen 1984). Old Friends (E4 5c) was a serious route with poor protection and a strenuous, technical, committing crux an uncomfortable distance above the ground. In 1975 he added (amongst others) Moon Crack (E5 6b), Reticent Mass Murderer (E5 6b), Hairless Heart (E5 5c), White Wand (E5/6 6a), Profit of Doom (E4 6b), and London Wall (E5 6b), the last four of these being climbed within a two week period! window._taboola = window._taboola || []; "Communication with Aliens" he said matter of factly. Personality! It is with a deep sense of grief that affected individuals mourn and shared the heartbreaking news on social media. Tributes and condolences are outpouring all over social media timelines as the death news of Allen hit online.


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